Transition types
Pick the profile from the height change, not the brand brochure. A laminate-to-tile doorway almost always wants a reducer; same-thickness LVP across a hall opening wants a T-mold.
- T-molding: same height, two hard surfaces (laminate to laminate across a doorway)
- Reducer: higher floor down to lower (laminate to vinyl or tile)
- End cap / square nose: flooring ends at fireplace or sliding door track
- Stair nose: bullnose profile on top stair tread for laminate/LVP
- Carpet gripper transition: metal strip where carpet meets hard flooring
Expansion gaps and baseboards
Floating floors need a 1/4–3/8 inch gap at walls — hidden by baseboard or quarter round. Do not caulk the floating edge to the wall.
Match transition color to flooring or trim. Buy one extra piece for miscuts. If baseboards stay in place, use shoe molding that covers the gap without pinning the floor.
How to order transitions
Measure each doorway width and add 10% for cuts. Count height changes between rooms — each needs a reducer or T-mold. See laminate install basics for when to snap transitions before the last row.
Write a doorway list before store day: “kitchen→hall T-mold 32″,” “bath reducer 28″.” Transitions are linear feet, not square footage — they never appear in the box calculator.
Door undercuts and flush installs
Many DIY jobs look unfinished because doors drag on new flooring. Undercut door jambs with a flush-cut saw so planks slide under the casing — then the transition sits centered in the opening, not jammed against the trim.
For flush tile-to-tile or glued LVP at the same height, a schluter or metal edge strip can replace a bulky T-mold. Floating floors still need a break at doorways when rooms exceed the manufacturer’s maximum continuous run.